My Updated Pre/Mid/Post Shaving Technique - Tried and True

Hey Guys, today I am going to share with you my updated Pre/Mid/Post Shaving Techniques with you, in the effort to help anyone who is starting out in the world of wet shaving, or those who are having difficulties with a few areas. Now I have to say, these steps have worked for me, and may be seen as subjective as well. I can whole-heartedly stand by them.

Pre Shave Routine

Important notes.

Note 1: Always fill a bowl up with some warm water and leave your brush soaking within it for the bristles to soften. This always allows the tip of the bristles lather the soap up without digging into the puck, as well as lather and load up evenly.

Note 2: Never shave with a blade that is way past it's use by date! This can vary from Blade to Blade, but I find that most blades last from 3 -5 shaves, depending on thickness of beard, as well as how aggressive the safety razor you have been shaving with is. Might Ireccommend a few brands, such as Gillette Nacet, Feather, Kai, Astra, Personna, Shark, Gillette Wilkinson.

Note 3: Put a thin layer of warm water on top of your shaving soap or puck. This allows the puck to 'bloom', ectracting the scent and also allowing for easier lathering.

Note 4 - Know the Terrain: Map your beard growth out with some lather in-
hand so that you know the direction with which your beard growth occurs. This will also help with knowing if you are going 'with the grain' (WTG), 'across the grain' (AXTG) Or 'again the grain'or (ATG). This is very important information to know for those with sensitive skin, but also for your first, second and third pass routine.

Note 5 - Rule of Substitution: Allow your blade and Safety Razor head to work as a team! Balance the Team out to make it work better. Try not to use a blade that is Very Aggressive (VA) within a VA safety razor head.

Depending on the types of razor head, as well as adjustable setting, I find that it's always more "sensible" to use a Moderately Aggressive (MA) blade within a VA safety razor head. I know that we all have that one go-to razor blade that just works!

But let's relate this back to sports. A team (Safety Razor) doesn't always use the same tactic against their opponent (facial hair) for 20 weeks of the year, just as much as they don't load a team (Safety Razor) up full of quarterbacks, strikers or forwards (blades), and expect to win the championship cup. You need to compliment your team (Safety Razor) with a variety of players (blades) for the different challenges that lie ahead.

Remember, you will get more blade gap and exposure on the Aggressive Safety Razor, so it's always safer to use a blade that won't cut your face to pieces. Substitute the blade with a moderately aggressive razor blade. If your safety razor is a non aggressive razor, substitute in a VA razor blade.

Again as in all things shaving, this is subjective for everyone involved, but as I myself have a very sensitive face, with different thickness and lengths of beards over time, the rule of substituting works!

Starting the Journey.

1. First and foremost, you have got to have a hot shower! During the shower, your skin is hydrated and your pores open to allow moisture to enter the skin.  Your facial hairs absorb the water and swell, allowing for easier slicing off of facial hair during the shave. I also like to use an Olive based facial cleanser to really clean, exfoliate and rid my face of all the dead layer of skin and impurities!

2. Never dry off your face after a shower. I find that it needs to be left warm with water so that the facial hair stays heavy and thicker than usual, giving the blade an easier task of slicing off the hairs.

In between drinks!

1. Lather like you hate it! Lather that soap up like its something you want to get rid of! You need a full, moist, rich and creamy lather to allow your blade the best chance to glide over a slick platform.

Obviously thicker on the first pass, even-ing the lather out on your face, getting the lather at the roots of your facial hair, allowing the hair to stand up on its own. Do not go too thick on the application, as your brush must further exfoliate your face whilst lathering! Trust me, your face will thank you for it!

2. Referring to Note 4 above, go WTG on the first pass, AXTG on the second pass and off needed, ATG on the third and final pass. Never go ATG to begin with on the first pass. You will be turned off wet shaving for the rest of your life!

3. During the second and third passes, go lighter on the lather application, and easier on the brush to face application. Remember that your face just went through agony on the first pass, so go easy on it.

Post Shave Care

I see this as the most important step of all. How do you soothe and care for your face after dragging a blade all over it?!

I myself always have an Alum block handy, as well as some of The Stray Whisker's After Balm, Proraso Pre and Post Shave cream (eucalyptus) as well as my pick of Aftershave Tonic. I have to say that the guys up at The Stray Whisker in Sydney, Australia, have made arguably the best after shave balm I have ever tried, and I have been at this for a while now. I have tried so many different types of after shave balm, with the result either being too sticky, too runny, or too dense.

After Balm is not too soft or runny, has added witch hazel and alum and does not smell like you're walking into a flower shop. The effects of applying this stuff are amazing, and leave my face feeling so smooth. Razor burn is also eliminated within 20 minutes of application.

Step 1: After your final pass, rinse your face off with warm to hot water. You will need a face wash towel handy, and keep applying the warm to hot water on your face for a good 2 minutes. This gets rid of the soap left behind, kills any germs left behind near your open pores, as well as prepares the pores for the applications you will make afterwards.

Step 2: Apply a good amount of cold water onto your face for another good minute or two. Use the face wash towel to apply the cold water on evenly. This soothes the pores, closes them an also stems any minor cuts or bleeding left behind. It is also soothing!

Step 3: While your face is still wet with cold water, rinse the alum block under the cold tap water, and then rub all over the shaved areas of the face. Word of warning, this will sting, as the properties found in natural alum mineral block act as estringents, tightening the skin, sealing off any open cuts on the face, stopping bleeding and also helps aid within the elimination of ingrown hairs with repeated use. This step will also give you feedback regarding where you may have shaved too close. It's a good education tool.

Step 4: After leaving the alum application on for at least 2 minutes to dry, wash it off gently with cold water. Leaving the face barely wet, apply some Proraso Pre and Post shave Eucalyptus cream on your face. This should spread evenly, and allows for a massive menthol kick with soothing eucalyptus on your cleanly shaved face. This is a product a lot of barbers use as a trick to soothe fresh straight razor shaved faces. Trust me, this stuff works. It's a godsend.

Step 5: After leaving the Proraso soothe and dry on the face until it is dry, wash it off with cold water until your face is clean. This last will be so cold due to the menthol, your face will thank you for it. Lastly, apply your after shave lotion and after shave balm.

Might I reccomend that you use a Dr Johns branded after shave lotion as they contain alum in them, which helps in preventing dreaded ingrown hairs.

So that's it guys! My shave routine! Have fun with it, experiment with it, chop and change things with it or even adopt a few elements. That is entirely up to you, but I hope I can help a few of you out there!